Where to stay in Maramureș

Maramureș is the far north of Romania, close to the border with Ukraine, and it feels different from the rest of the country. Villages are built of wood, families still pass through tall carved gates on their way to church, and traditions that disappeared elsewhere are part of everyday life. It is a place to slow down: give it at least three nights.

Where to stay

The Iza valley (Vadu Izei, Bârsana, Rozavlea, Ieud) is the classic choice. Villages follow the river, guesthouses are often family homes with wooden verandas, and several of the famous churches are within a short drive.

The Mara valley (Desești, Hărnicești, Budești, Breb) is smaller and quieter, with hay meadows, orchards and old wooden houses. Choose it if you want walks and village life rather than sightseeing.

Sighetu Marmației is the main town, practical for a first night, for restaurants and for the memorial museum. Săpânța is a short drive away.

Vișeu de Sus and Borșa are further east, at the foot of the Rodna mountains. Stay here for the steam train and for hiking; Borșa also has ski slopes in winter.

What to see

• The wooden churches. Eight of them are on the UNESCO World Heritage list: Bârsana, Budești, Desești, Ieud, Plopiș, Poienile Izei, Rogoz and Șurdești. They have steep shingle roofs, tall thin towers and painted interiors. Many are kept locked; ask in the village who holds the key, usually someone living nearby.
• The Merry Cemetery in Săpânța. Blue wooden crosses carved and painted with scenes from the lives of the people buried there, often with funny or blunt verses. It is a cemetery first, so visit respectfully.
• The Vaser valley steam train (Mocănița). A narrow-gauge forest railway from Vișeu de Sus into the mountains. It runs in the warmer season; book ahead in summer.
• Bârsana Monastery. A newer wooden monastery with one of the tallest wooden churches in the region, set in landscaped gardens.
• The Memorial of the Victims of Communism in Sighetu Marmației, in the former political prison, a serious and moving museum.

What to eat and drink

Expect generous, rustic food: soups, cabbage rolls, polenta with cheese and sour cream, and home-made cakes. Horincă, the local fruit brandy, is offered to guests as a welcome. If you don't drink, it is fine to say so politely.

Winter traditions

Christmas in Maramureș is still lived in the old way, with groups of carol singers going from house to house and masked processions between Christmas and New Year. Sighetu Marmației usually holds a festival of winter customs just after Christmas. If you want to see it, book a guesthouse early, as rooms in the area are limited.

Getting there

Maramureș is a long way from Bucharest. Most visitors fly into Cluj-Napoca and drive north for about three to four hours, or arrive by the night train from Bucharest to Sighetu Marmației. Once there, a car is by far the easiest way to move between villages, as buses are infrequent.

Good to know

• Sunday is church day. Dress modestly if you go in, and don't photograph people without asking.
• Many guesthouses serve dinner on request; tell your host in the morning if you want to eat in.
• Keep cash in lei for village shops, church donations and small guesthouses.